Thursday, June 20, 2013

Dinosaur Tracks and Native American Handprints

We are fortunate to be living in an area where dinosaur tracks, Native American artifacts and pictographs can be found with a 10 minute hike from our RV.  Below are pictures of three dinosaur tracks we found on a rocky ledge above the RV site and what may be Native American handprints on a cliff wall nearby.

 
Three-toed dino track
 

 Another track (?)
 
Track #3 (found 6/27)
 

Hand Prints on Cliff Wall 
 
 Tool Sharpening Marks in Cliff Wall
 
Plants are blooming in the desert garden next to our RV!
 

Teddybear Cholla
 


 
Cholla blossom
 
 
Things with thorns seem to do especially well here.

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Better than Expected

Wednesday, June 19th
Day Off #3

I'd wanted to visit the Bingham Gallery, which showcases the work of Maynard Dixon,
ever since reading about it several years ago.   We had intended to stop Monday on the way to Escalante but missed the sign.  Canceling the Phipps Arch hike cleared our agenda for today, so we made the gallery our destination. 

What fortunate timing! We arrived a few minutes after 10:00, just as the owner was  unlocking the doors.  He told us the docent-led tour requires a reservation but the self-guided tour doesn't and Mrs. Bingham, at the house preparing for a day-camp group, could answer our questions.  The house is a small, simple, straight-forward cabin set in a shaded cove well-watered by an irrigation ditch with a spectacular view of southern Utah's iconic cliffs.                
 


 
 
 
Dixon's Thunderbird insignia above door to his studio
 

We encountered Mrs. Bingham inside the cabin and talked with her for 20 or 30 minutes.  She told us much of what you'd learn in the guided tour as well as how they came to own the property.  After working for Xerox in California during the dot.com era, they became art dealers specializing in works by Dixon and his contemporaries. 




'The Navajo'

They bought the home, studio and additional acreage following the death of Milford Zornes, a watercolor artist, who purchased it from Dixon's widow.   In 1999 they created the non-profit Thunderbird Foundation to preserve and maintain the property as a living history museum.

 
Dixon requested that his ashes be brought to Mt. Carmel.
They are buried beneath this boulder.

Touched and impressed by what we'd seen, we returned to the gallery and offered to take brochures and a poster to display at Parry Lodge.  Mr. Bingham told us about the collection of John K. Hillers* photographs they had purchased in the late 1990's  and showed us several of his portraits of Native Americans.  The collection will be sold at auction in the near future and the Binghams desperately want it to remain in this area.  In addition to the advertising materials, he sent us home with eight of Hillers' Native American prints and a book about Hillers' experiences traveling in the Southwest.

*Hillers served as the photographer for John Wesley Powell's second expedition (1872)down the Colorado River and for the Bureau of American Ethnology.
 


'Indian Boy and His Dog'
 

All that culture made us quite hungry so we stopped at the Thunderbird Restaurant for lunch and their Ho-Made Pie.

 
Fred, the Ho and the Pie


Memory Lane, Part Deux

Monday & Tuesday, June 17th & 18th
Days Off #1 & #2

Four days off!!  What a perfect opportunity to hike out of Escalante--slot canyons on Tuesday and Phipps Arch on Wednesday.


 
When Fred is charged up to go hiking, we mean that literally.
 

En route, we drove around Tropic and reminisced about our summer there two years ago.  We stopped at the visitor center in Escalante to ask about the condition of Hole-in-the-Rock Road (good) and the slots (dry) then checked into the motel, bought Fred a sun hat and had dinner. 

A good night's sleep and an early start saw us bouncing down Hole-in-the-Rock at 6:45.  By the time we began the descent into Dry Fork, the sun had already heated up its rock walls and sandy bottom.   The entrance to Peek-a-Boo looked dark, cool and inviting.   We scrambled up the 16-foot wall and into the bowels of the canyon.  Working our way along the narrow space required sliding, slithering and scooting as well as climbing and crawling but seeing the incredible forms and colors inside was well worth the scrapes and scratches.  When we were ready to leave, a family group appeared below.  We waited while they entered, with the assistance of an inadequate-looking rope for the older folks, then they waited to make sure we descended without incident.

 
Fred ascending entry to Peek-a-Boo
 

Jan's turn
 

Ta...
 

Dah!!


Inside Peek-a-Boo



Spooky, shorter, narrower and cooler than Peek-a-Boo, is about half a mile further down the wash.  On our previous attempt, I did about half its length when claustrophobia struck; this time, I was able to make it to where the 'slot' became a 'slit.'
Both of us had to remove our packs and Fred crawled through some of the tightest places.
 
 
Inside Spooky
 
 
Squeezing through Spooky
 
Fred has posted a GoPro video of the trip thru Spooky at  http://youtu.be/VGQHozLJuSU

 
 

From Spooky to Brimstone is a two-mile slog through deep sand alleviated by short stretch where the walls of Dry Fork are only about eight feet apart, providing a brief respite from the sun.  When we spotted a thin shadow at the base of a cliff, we realized we needed shade, rest and food.  After "a private moment with Mother Nature, " I sat down next to Fred then quickly sprang to my feet in pain.  Lots of shorts have a fly in the front; mine had a fly--the biting kind--in the seat!  Some rapid disrobing released it and saved me. 
 
 
Huge chockstones in narrow section of Dry Fork
 

The description of Brimstone as 'spookier than Spooky' is spot-on.  The rock walls are much darker, more convoluted and closer to each other so less light enters from above.
Again we had to take off our packs and slide sideways through some sections.  The deeper into the canyon we went, the more the temperature dropped until we eventually felt chilly.  In a wide space about halfway down, we met a group of teen-aged boys (scouts?) and their chaperones on their way out.  One of the leaders warned us that the way becomes 'pinchy' and reaching the end requires stemming.  We had no intention or desire to travel that far and turned around about half a mile from the entrance.
 
 
 
Interior of Brimstone
 
 


Inhale!


The BLM guide mentioned, but did not detail, a cross-country route back to the parking lot.  We found the trail and followed it, growing increasingly apprehensive about where it might take us.  We were relieved when it led us back into Dry Fork at the place where one turns toward Spooky.  Whew! we knew where we were and how to reach the Jeep.  But we also knew we faced a long, difficult walk through deep, powdery sand with full sun and a headwind.  Occasionally we encountered a bit of shade, some solid ground or a decrease in the wind; then the hike seemed momentarily more pleasant.

We reached the parking lot about 2:00 and skittered back Hole-in-the-Rock to Escalante,  the in-bound trip being much rougher than the out-bound.  Dinner the previous night had been too much and too heavy so we nuked frozen entrees from the grocery store in the motel room microwave.  During the evening, we assessed the toll the hike had taken--hours in the sun had worn us out and the sand in our shoes had abraded our feet--and decided to reschedule Phipps Arch for later in the season.